Photos by L.G. Patterson
A bell on the door greets you on your way in, there might be a line and it might be a little crowded, but it’s friendly, local and you recognize the faces behind the counter. You might have a “usual” order if you stop in enough and maybe you’re considered a “regular” by the family running the deli on the corner. Some towns have abandoned these appeals that come with a locally owned spot in favor of quick, corporate drive-thrus and fast food, but not here.
In Columbia, where local restaurants are the pillars of our community, we proudly opt for the small business when given the choice between a chain and a neighborhood joint. As far as the local lunch scene goes, we have no shortage of burgers, tacos and pizza parlors, but Chelsea and Paddy Jernigan noticed a sandwich-shaped hole in downtown Columbia’s heart.
Paddy Jernigan, the former chef at Ozark Mountain Biscuit Co., recalls the familiar charm of the dearly-missed 9th Street Deli. It was known for its sandwiches, soups and Chicago-style dogs that kept Columbia fed for decades before its closure in 2011. Alongside the recent closure of a local staple, Sub Shop, part of our city is missing that classic, friendly feel that comes with neighborhood delis.
Paddy cites 9th Street as part of the inspiration for this new venture: an old- school, traditional sandwichery called Birdie’s Deli. Chelsea says the name was a “no-brainer” decision: Birdie is the name of their two-year old daughter.
Similar to Paddy, Chelsea is also well- affiliated with the restaurant industry, having spent time working at Logboat Brewing Co. and Pasta La Fata. They’ve both spent their careers learning the ins and outs of the industry and are ready to set out on their own.
Birdie’s Deli has been in the works for over five years, with Chelsea and Paddy bouncing ideas off of each other and testing out menu items. They’ve solidified their vision: an accessible market and deli located downtown, with enough room to dine in and a walk-up window to order to go. And what matters most, of course, is the sandwiches themselves.
The produce — fresh lettuce, juicy tomatoes, crisp onions and peppers — comes from Wilson’s produce, the same supplier Murry’s uses. The fluffy bread on each sandwich comes from Fazio’s on The Hill in St. Louis. Currently, their cured meat and charcuterie comes from St. Louis’ Volpi Foods. For months, Chelsea and Paddy have been guinea pig-ing their menu items, holding pop-ups at Ozark Mountain and Logboat. At their June pop-up, the duo sold 320 sandwiches, with rave reviews from the customers. At their July pop-up, hosted inside the Broadway Brewery Taproom, the line stretched from Taproom all the way past Sparky’s, full of eager and hungry customers.
The menu combines favorites from all over the country, including a traditional Italian beef (as seen on “The Bear”), classic Italian cold cuts and the Philadelphia-inspired roasted pork and broccoli rabe sandwich. Chelsea’s favorite is the Pig Pen, loaded up with mortadella, hard salami, prosciutto, provolone, veggies, mayo and their house vinaigrette. Paddy is partial to the Lazio, which includes shaved porchetta, provolone and broccoli rabe, served with pork jus, but says the Birdie’s Club is sure to be a regular favorite. The Birdie’s Club is stacked with bacon, smoked turkey, veggies and their green goddess dressing.
So, where can you get a bite of a Birdie’s Deli sandwich now? Pop-ups will continue monthly until their opening, which Chelsea says will line up with True/False weekend, if not sooner. Upon opening, they’ll be in service from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. and hope to offer a Thursday through Saturday late-night window from 9 p.m. to midnight to catch the post-bar crowd. Once they’re open for business, they will also have catering available. For updates on everything Birdie’s, check them out on Instagram, @birdiescomo, or their website: birdiescomo.com,
