Photo by L.G. Patterson

Once you lock eyes on deviled eggs at an event, you know you’ll have two, three or even a dozen. Fortunately, exactly how they’re counted is somewhat contentious. Technically if you consume a dozen, it is only six eggs. I prefer to go with that math if asked. The modern version of deviled eggs, with mayonnaise as a binder, dates back to the late 1800s, appearing in the Boston Cooking School Cookbook. This was a few years after the first American recipe had been published in a newspaper in Alabama, albeit without mayonnaise.

EGG

While an older egg may peel easier because of the enlarged air sack, that may lead to a misshapen egg that is not as symmetrical. There are several methods to hard-cooked eggs, some add them to hot water, some boil them with the eggs, and some bring them to a boil and let it sit, this is my preferred method. If you limit the amount of time the eggs are at a hot temperature, you can hopefully prevent the green ring around the outside of the yolk. The green is caused when cooking at a high heat. The protein will start to break down and release a sulfur gas, causing the green ring, and sometimes the smell associated with the cooked eggs.

COOK

This method may have to be tweaked some but will become foolproof, use the same pan, the same number of eggs, the same volume and temperature of water to start, and the same amount of time sitting after coming to a boil. The Cook — one dozen eggs, covered by one inch of cold water, bring to a boil over high heat, once the water has boiled, turn off, cover the pan and let sit for 12 minutes. Gently pour out hot water, and run under cold water for about two minutes until they are just cool enough to handle.

PEEL

It’s best to peel the eggs as soon as they are cool enough to handle. I leave the cool water in the pan and crack the egg with several dozen small hits to the counter evenly spread throughout the egg. Then carefully pick at the broken shell, trying to get just under the shell membrane. I dip the egg under water to separate the membrane from the egg. Keep repeating and dipping until the shell comes off in several large pieces. Then place the eggs into ice water to chill and rinse off any small pieces of the shell.

CUT

While the traditional method involves cutting the egg vertically to create an oval shape, cutting horizontally offers a sturdier circular base, ideal for heavier toppings. This may work better if you are topping with a more substantial item and you need a more sturdy base to grab. While you can cut the egg all the way through, you also can roll the egg as you pull the knife across, leaving the yolk whole, and then pop out the yolk like an avocado pit.

FILLING

I have some suggestions on filling amounts below. The filling should be adjusted to taste, as the moisture content of yolks can vary. Mixing and tasting is going to be your best guide. If it seems a little dry, add more mayonnaise, pickle juice, vinegar or even water. You can swap out the mayo for other items like butter, ranch, relish or avocado depending on what flavor profile you want to go with. You can use a two-spoon method (scoop filling with one, push onto the egg with the other), or a piping bag (have a dedicated pastry piping bag and tips) or scoop the filling into a ziplock bag (this method may not be as pretty, but it sure is easy). Fill a bag, cut off a corner and squeeze the mixture onto the egg).

TOPPING

Here is where you can get creative or keep it basic. If you want, just dust it with a little paprika. It will be delicious, and I will probably eat at least five. If you want to switch it up, pick a theme and break it down. What items would go well mixed into the yolks (avocado, soy sauce, miso, ranch, blue cheese, jalapeno pickle juice), and what items need to go on top (charred corn, crispy bacon, jalapeno slices, Cotija cheese, salmon, shallots, herbs, spices). The sky’s the limit, and if you build it, they will come to eat it. Sometimes a swing and a miss is what it takes to come up with a hit the next time (my favorite of the shoot was the elote egg).