Photos by L.G. Patterson
Dr. Bill Kinney and Dr. Robert Zitsch are jacks of all trades. Kinney is an ear, nose and throat surgeon, having retired last April after 29 years of practice. Zitsch is a head and neck cancer surgeon and chairman of the department at the University of Missouri. Outside of the hospital, Kinney is a woodworker and has spent over a decade perfecting the methods of home brewing beer. Zitsch farms, gardens and keeps bees. Ever since the two formed a friendship in 1997, they’ve aspired toward opening their own brewery.
Trail Stop Brewery is years in the making and anticipated to open March 1. Kinney and Zitsch finally pursued their long-term dreams of owning an establishment dedicated to fresh pizza, craft beers and community when they purchased the lot Trail Stop sits on now in April 2023. The lot was a gamble; the space off Brushwood Lake Road was once a floodplain.
“Nobody wanted to take the risk, so we took the risk,” Kinney says. Luckily, city inspectors and FEMA officials were able to raise the plain and deem it safe for construction. The recovered floodplain was a well-kept secret among real estate buyers and its proximity to the trails is intentional.
“One quick hop over the bridge, and you’re there,” Kinney says. He wants the brewery to attract the bikers, dog-walkers and joggers for a post-hike beer, slice of pizza or game of pickleball.
Now situated on sprawling land, Trail Stop is taking form as a charming red-and-white building made up of vast, swooping ceilings and massive windows. Four pickleball courts, paved in a matching red, add to Trail Stop’s appeal. Although Kinney has never played pickleball, he wanted his brewery to be activity-based. The courts can be reserved online at an hourly rate from 7 a.m. to close (between 9 and 11 p.m.) and they may consider offering memberships in the future.
The east-facing pickleball courts and patio are also key; the setting sun won’t hinder players’ views or disrupt diners. The hillside the courts lay beneath also offer the opportunity for stadium-style spectator seating, something Kinney hopes to add once they host tournaments and clinics.
The building itself is local to its bones. The blueprints were drawn up and planned by Columbia architect Chris Davis and the vision was brought to life by COIL Construction. Even the furniture within the establishment is local. Kinney is putting his woodworking skills to good use by hand-creating five stunning hackberry tables. The tables are fashioned out of a tree cutdown during renovations to Columbia Independent School, and given new life as beautiful, hand-fashioned tabletops.
These five tables are only a small piece of the brewery that will sit approximately 100 guests, with booths, high-tops and bar seating.
Diners at Trail Stop will immediately notice four large, silver brew tanks on the wall. Kinney is using his knack for home brewing by investing in the creation and rotation of unique beers. The brew tanks are fully automated and self-cleaning; they ferment worts — grains used to make beer — from New Zealand and Germany into delicious brews to be kegged.
Kinney has hand-selected Trail Stop’s initial rotation of beers: three IPAs, a pale ale, a wheat, a porter and two lagers. They will also offer seltzers, ciders and wine.
And as hungry pickleball players, hikers and hopeful diners will know, nothing accompanies a fresh, locally brewed beer quite like pizza. Kinney and Zitsch partnered with Marceline Pizza Company to bring their Chicago-inspired, Neapolitan fare to Columbia.
Marceline Pizza Company’s primary location is in Marceline, MO, but owners Andrew and Carrie Welsh were intrigued when Zitsch walked into their restaurant and asked if they’d consider an expansion.
“Everything just fell into place,” Kinney says. His and Zitsch’s shared vision of unique beers, great pizza and creating a space for people to gather and get active became much more vivid after the addition of Marceline Pizza Company.
Trail Stop’s menu doesn’t end at wood-fired pizza. They also plan to offer Italian beef sandwiches, salads, soups and appetizers with gelato for dessert. On weekend mornings, Trail Stop hopes to operate as a coffee stop for the early-bird pickleball players and hikers.
Out of all the craft beers and hand-tossed pizzas on their menu, there is one combination Kinney favors. He recommends trying out their Dortmunder, a light German lager that balances out a combination of hops and strong malt. He pairs it with their “Meateater,” a Chicago-style pizza topped with pepperoni, sausage, bacon and more.
While Kinney and Zitsch do not have any restaurant experience, they are ready to dive into this endeavor, especially with the help of Marceline Pizza Company’s Andrew and Carrie.
“I’m not afraid of working hard,” Kinney says. “I plan on being here every single day.”
You may recognize Dr. Kinney if he took your tonsils out, or if you’ve seen his woodworking. You may know Dr. Zitsch from his role on the department board at Mizzou or have heard of his beekeeping. These two wear many hats — the next being restaurateurs, brewmasters and business owners.
